Well its come to that time where I'm back in the UK and have to hang my boots up (at least for a few months) so time to say goodbye and remember some of those good times...

...

Australia

Well I started here, catching up with Jay & Derm. Different to be staying in Stanmore rather than Potts Point but it reinforced that the Eastern Suburb Chapter of my life in Sydney was over and I wouldn't be living there again (albeit even on a visit). I enjoyed the more grown up living in the inner west but missed the fun of my youth in Potts.

Western Australia was amazing on my tour up the coast, strange that it actually felt “off the beaten track” but nice to see a part of the country that wasn't over-run with pommie backpackers. Perth was my second favourite Oz city after Sydney and I loved the Western beaches. On Easyrider tour both to Broome & down to Albany I made some nice friends and we had that joyful night in Pardoo (lol). Monkey Mia Dolphins were a highlight as was climbing the giant Gloucester Tree in the karri forest by Pemberton. Margaret River gave me the best wine tasting and I'm in love with Oaked Chardonnay from that experience.

I only have the Kimberleys (NW WA), the Nullarbor plain and Tasmania to explore now in Oz. Any excuse to go back... he he.

New Zealand

My main home for this year away. Some great friends from the 3 months covering all NZ's nooks and crannies, plus my settled in Wellington friends. The “Jump on Jump off” option from Stray was the best decision I have made to backpack, meant I could tailor my travels to where I wanted to be.

North Island- for a European, probably the better part for me. Active volcanos (from the sulphur marine White Island, to the mud geysers of Rotorua); dormant volcanos to tramp (hike) over (with one of the best one day climbs ever of the Tongariro Crossing); earthquakes galore in Wellington (albeit mini-quakes that I never managed to feel); Art Deco & wine in Napier; Hot Water beach to dig your own spa pool in; amazing beaches; Maori culture and history. Plus my home was Wellington and we had the best summer ever on record with little wind or rain and were (at times) the hottest place in NZ (as I was there! Lol).

South Island- beaches such as Abel Tasman (golden sands and great weather); glaciers (the only place in the world where glaciers, rainforest and the sea are side by side) where Franz Josep is amazing; Barrytown- five people reside here but the All Nations Pub is where dressing up is compulsory and a hoot; Queenstown- where if you cant find some adrenaline sport to enjoy, you are dead (go BUNGY!!!) and the nightlife, well you'll never get bored here; Dunedin, the Edinburgh of the South with some great coastline (Catlins); Christchurch quintessentially English; the Southern Alps- try the train journey, its amazing!

Stewart Island- yes this is the third island and the trip across will be the wildest boat experience you ever take. Natural, wild, very “local” and great for scootering- lol.

NZ is where I turned 30 (argghh) but some good mates kept me sane... thank you to Dannyboy, Gazzles, Shauny & Blind-boy Patrick.

Eire.

Three weeks was maybe too much so soon after NZ as the rolling fields, sheep and mountains were oh so like NZ (probably why Gary feels so at home in Welli). Dublin didn't feel Irish to me and I could so hear the Scouse accent's progenitor here. Paddywagon was a great way to get round the full Island (including the North) and the drivers gave an unbiased history which changed the misinformation we are fed at school. Co. Mayo is both sides of my family's homeland so it was nice to see where my lineage started; the hunger/famine memorial will haunt me for ever. Lots of Guinness but never again lol.

Baltics.

These countries should have had a break before this mad dash to join the EU (and I am pro-EU). May loose their own culture in this escape from the USSR, unfortunately one UNESCO world heritage old town, all look the same after a while. Learnt a lot from their museums about the true sacrifices of WWII (sod the American par-contribution... the Eastern Europeans lost everything being attacked from both sides). Latvia, was too over-run by pommie stag parties. Estonia was rushing to be Scandinavian again (closely related to the Finns). Lithuania was nothing special I'm afraid.

Belarus

The only dictatorship left in Europe. Worth a visit. Harks to the 1980s and just before the fall of the USSR. Must learn Cyrillic Alphabet and Russian or you are as stuck as I was. Definitely off the beaten track and one of my favourite places as it was sooooo different.

Ukraine

If only I had got to the Crimea (oh well) but Kiev is a lovely city and the beaches hark back to a simpler non-tourist existence. Nice mix of Russian/European people/culture. Hostels useless. Very friendly people in Kiev. Lviv:- sorry but it's UNESCO old town and churches. Mixed personality as its been Polish/Hungarian/Ukrainian. They don't like the Russians here and don't speak much English. Go back east to the real Ukraine, please...

Poland

Krakow changed since my last visit in 1994 (lol) now very western and touristy. Experience the horrors of Auschwitz-Birkenhau, the world should never forget! Zakopane:- the Tatras mountains are gorgeous but again too touristy, worth a visit though if you enjoy hiking.

Slovakia

I couldn't stay in the mountains here but the views are so picturesque. Bratislava is the 'city of the tripod' with a mix of brilliant modern art cleverly complimenting the UNESCO old town. Sweet as.

Czech Republic

Brno:- Mendel and the birthplace of genetics; the Moravian Karst, the most amazing Jurassic Limestone Caves I've seen in years. The Punkva caves tour and boat ride through flooded caves is worth the pre-book. Prague, very ex-pat and fully western but great to party and let your hair down, very international.

Austria

Sorry Wien/Vienna. I wasn't ready for you and you are so Central Europe. Expensive and main sights closed in the summer months (horse-school and boys choir).

Hungary

Budapest, great city and amazing spas (try a few different ones). East meets West and very cosmopolitan. Maygar people friendly and good for a break. Sorry I was getting tired of the travels by this point as it has a lot to offer as a single holiday destination.

Serbia

Much bashed and needs a cuddle. Belgrade grey city but nightlife extraordinaire (if the storms don't knock out everyone's power- lol) on the floating clubs. Also nice to be back in the Cyrillic world.

Bosnia

War-scarred but repairing. Mix of Slavic cultures and some amazing scenery. Sarajevo is a must; Mostar is quaint and worth a side trip rather than a full stay.

Croatia

I had no time for the coast and Zagreb should be passed-by I'm afraid. UNESCO old town, no water/rivers. May be best to stick to the coast (if it wasn't so expensive).

Slovenia

Last of my Yugoslavia dash countries. Ljubljana has great buildings and bridges. Picturesque again. Problem is it is set up for groups or couples in its nightlife, mainly cafe culture even in the bars... no fun as a single traveller when students away.

Norway

I only saw Sandefjord but this whaling town is nice to visit if you have a few hours to kill at Torp airport. The whaling museum makes you re-evaluate your views on whaling... are they the super animal we think of or a wasted resource that could be harvested more wisely.

Conclusion

Well I hope you have all enjoyed these travels as much as I have. It has been a tiring journey but amazing and what I needed to rediscover who I am. Will return eastwards on my next holiday before they totally westernise... get of the beaten track and see the world, its a wonderful place.

Gremskie x x x